Serengeti

:Arusha: :Tarangire: :Ngorongoro Crater: :Serengeti: :Balloon Safari: :Cat Gallery:

Feb 17, 2003

We left the Ngorongoro Crater and drove back out toward the Serengeti Plains. We passed through the Mulanga Depression, where the landscape became more rocky, full dry gorges.

We took an opportunity to visit a Maasai village (manyatta) along the way. The Maasai are pastoralists who tend herds of cattle and goats. Among the most memorable sounds of our journey was the chorus of women singing a welcoming song.

Their song commenced with a shout of "Jambo" (hello in Swahili) followed by a melodic series of descending syllables that sounded like "wa-la-le-lo-o-oe."

The Maasai are known for their beadwork, and the women wore many examples.

Next, we were escorted to a group of several moran (warriors) who demonstrated their characteristic leaping dance.

The dancers alternated in performing their solo leaps to amazing heights in time with the rhythmic "Ho" chorus of the other morans.

The women are responsible for building their bomas, semi-rectangular homes made of cut branches, mud and cow dung. Bill and I were invited into one. It was cramped and dark and hot and smelly, but we didn’t pass up the chance.

Polygamy is still practiced by the Maasai: the chief of this village had 10 wives.

Next, we visited Oldupai Gorge, where Richard and Mary Leakey made their amazing discoveries of early hominid remains. It was here in 1959 that Mary Leakey uncovered a 1.75 million year old Australopithecus jawbone. It was really breathtaking to be right in the Cradle of Mankind.

Off to the Serengeti!

Okay, before I go any further, let me tell you about these amazing maps that we purchased before our trip! Each was hand-colored by an artist in Arusha…the maps are gorgeous and informative. One side of the maps depict the regions during the dry season, and the other side shows the rainy season. Around the border of each are detailed pictures of different trees and plants, footprints of various animals, along with migration patterns.

We brought them along (after finding them online), and everyone in our safari group fell in love with them and ended up purchasing their own along the way.

Now, Serengeti is derived from the Maasai word 'siringet' that means 'endless plains'. This couldn’t be a more perfect description. We descended out of the lush Ngorongoro highlands onto the Serengeti plains. Not only did the savannah stretch endlessly, but so did the vast herds of animals! It was almost incomprehensible how many animals surrounded us in all directions.

Then we were off to our campsite, at the foot of Naabi Hill in the Serengeti. Our 10 tents at the Classic Tent site were pitched for us, and we moved right in. Each had a latrine and shower tent set up behind, and we had a lesson from the Camp Manager about how to use the chemical toilets and showers. Dave and Amy found a big tarantula in their "bathroom", and from then on, I gave the bathroom tent a thorough inspection of every nook and crevice with a flashlight before entering.

The front “porch” was perfect for watching over the savannah.

The twin beds were not exactly typical “honeymoon” accommodations, but they were comfy and warm at night.

In the early evenings, the camp crew would set up a campfire for us to gather around for before- and after-dinner stories and drinks.

The dining tent was quite formally set and lit each evening with candles.

The South African wines were delicious with dinner.

On to: More Serengeti

Back to the Lost Luggage Lounge